2016年12月12日,紅酒世界攜手亞洲首位葡萄酒大師李志延(Jeannie Cho Lee MW)為葡萄酒愛(ài)好者奉獻(xiàn)了一場(chǎng)精彩的葡萄酒品鑒直播。直播中,李志延大師現(xiàn)場(chǎng)品鑒了2012年博塞貝戈酒莊紅葡萄酒(2012 Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe, France)等4款名莊佳釀,寓知識(shí)于美酒之中,與大家一起分享關(guān)于葡萄酒的獨(dú)特見(jiàn)解。此外,李志延大師還回答了一些葡萄酒愛(ài)好者的問(wèn)題。本文為大家呈現(xiàn)這場(chǎng)直播的視頻以及部分精選問(wèn)題。
以下是此次直播部分精選問(wèn)題:
1. 今年勃艮第(Burgundy)遭遇了嚴(yán)重的冰雹和霜凍,因此我們是否可以稱2016年對(duì)于勃艮第來(lái)說(shuō)是糟糕的一年?
答:對(duì)于勃艮第來(lái)說(shuō),今年確實(shí)是艱難的一年,所以大家在選酒時(shí)需要更為謹(jǐn)慎。但是對(duì)于一些頂級(jí)葡萄酒商來(lái)說(shuō),他們依然可以釀造出上好的葡萄酒,比如前幾周我就在勃艮第品嘗到了不少好酒??傮w來(lái)說(shuō),2016年勃艮第紅葡萄酒的表現(xiàn)會(huì)比白葡萄酒好。
李志延原文:It was a difficult vintage for Burgundy so you need to be careful, but the top producers which I just tasted a few weeks ago in Burgundy made very good wine. Reds are better than the whites in general.
2. 波爾多(Bordeaux)和勃艮第近些年有哪些不錯(cuò)的年份,可以推薦一下嗎?
答:對(duì)于波爾多,我推薦2005、2009、2010以及2015;2001和2006這兩個(gè)年份也非常不錯(cuò),但被低估了。對(duì)于勃艮第,我推薦2002、2005、2009、2010和2015;2007、2008及2012則是三個(gè)被低估了的好年份。
李志延原文:For Bordeaux I recommend 2005, 2009, 2010 and 2015. Vintages that are very good but under-rated are 2001 and 2006. For Burgundy I recommend 2002, 2005, 2009, 2010 and 2015. Under-rated Burgundy vintages are 2007, 2008 and 2012.
3. 波爾多左岸與右岸的葡萄酒風(fēng)格有何區(qū)別?
答:左岸的紅葡萄酒因混釀中梅洛(Merlot)的比例較低,所以一般單寧更緊實(shí),口感沒(méi)那么清新,果味沒(méi)有右岸豐富,而右岸的紅葡萄酒口感更甜美,帶有更多李子的風(fēng)味,更容易在年輕時(shí)飲用。
李志延原文:Left bank reds have firmer tannins and are less fleshier, have less generous fruit because there is less Merlot used in the blend while Right bank wines are sweeter, more plummy and easier to enjoy young.
4. 圣埃美隆(Saint-Emilion)和波美侯(Pomerol)有什么區(qū)別?
答:這個(gè)問(wèn)題我在直播過(guò)程中回答過(guò),但是從本質(zhì)上說(shuō),這是因?yàn)樗麄兎N植的葡萄品種不同、土壤類型有所差異,從而導(dǎo)致各產(chǎn)區(qū)葡萄酒風(fēng)格不同;圣埃美隆主要為石灰石土壤,種植著品麗珠(Cabernet Franc)和梅洛(Merlot),波美侯則主要為黏土,種植著梅洛。
李志延原文:I answered this during the livestream, but essentially, it is the grape varieties planted as well as the soil that brings out different characteristics in their respective regions: St Emilion for Cabernet Franc and Merlot on limestone and Pomerol for Merlot on clay.
5. 圣埃美隆Grand Cru和Grand Cru Classe有什么區(qū)別?
答:正如我在直播中所說(shuō),圣埃美隆法定產(chǎn)區(qū)(Saint-Emilion Grand Cru)以地理位置為劃分依據(jù),它包含數(shù)百個(gè)生產(chǎn)商。而圣埃美隆列級(jí)酒莊(Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe)酒莊的考核標(biāo)準(zhǔn)更為嚴(yán)格,品質(zhì)要求更高。圣埃美隆每10年都會(huì)對(duì)這些酒莊進(jìn)行重新評(píng)定,確保它們達(dá)到品質(zhì)要求。符合這一條件的酒莊不到100家。
李志延原文:As I mentioned in the livestream, St Emilion Grand Cru has several hundred producers and is based on geography whereas Grand Cru Classe has stricter, higher quality standards including a tasting component of the last 10 vintages for the chateaux which has to meet quality levels. Grand Cru Class wines make up less than 100 chateaux.
6. 酒評(píng)家經(jīng)常會(huì)用“平衡”來(lái)贊美一款酒,可以說(shuō)說(shuō)何為“平衡”嗎?
答:紅葡萄酒的“平衡”指葡萄酒中風(fēng)味的濃郁度以及品質(zhì)與酒的結(jié)構(gòu)(包括單寧、酒體、酒精含量、酸度)相互作用的結(jié)果。這些要素之間相互平衡,不會(huì)有某種要素過(guò)于突出,而是相互“烘托”。
李志延原文:Balance in red wine is how the intensity and quality of flavors interact with the structure of the wine which includes tannins, body, alcohol and acidity. All elements must be in balance, not over-powering the others but rather heightening and complementing each other.
7. 顆粒感的質(zhì)地指的是?
答:顆粒感指的是葡萄酒單寧緊致,譬如一款品質(zhì)一般的年輕馬爾貝克(Malbec)葡萄酒,它的單寧會(huì)緊緊抓住舌頭,而不是讓人覺(jué)得順滑或者柔順。
李志延原文:Grainy means the tannins are grippy like a young, moderate quality Malbec where the tannins grip your tongue rather than glide over it smoothly.
8. 如何感知單寧?如何定義一款酒的單寧是“柔順”的?
答:?jiǎn)螌幨峭ㄟ^(guò)舌頭來(lái)感知的。粗糙干澀的單寧嘗起來(lái)像是在水中浸泡了很長(zhǎng)時(shí)間的紅茶葉;而柔順的單寧則像是放置了20-30年的陳年普洱茶,你能感覺(jué)到單寧就在那里,但它在口腔中表現(xiàn)得平順光滑。
李志延原文:Tannins are felt on the tongue; harsh, dry tannins taste like black tea leaves when the tea has been steeped in water too long. Soft tannins are like aged (20-30 yr old) pu'er tea where the tannins are there and you taste them but they feel smooth on your palate.
9. 如果一款酒具有皮革氣息,能否說(shuō)明這款酒是老酒?
答:不一定,但是通常老酒里面會(huì)出現(xiàn)皮革氣息。不過(guò)年輕的西拉(Syrah)葡萄酒也可能帶有類似皮革的氣息(年輕的深色皮革氣息)。
李志延原文:Not always but often older wines smell of leather. But young Syrah can also smell like leather (young, tanned leather).
10. 如何定義一款好的葡萄酒?
答:一款好的葡萄酒應(yīng)該具有平衡的架構(gòu)、上佳的濃郁度、富有層次的復(fù)雜風(fēng)味以及悠長(zhǎng)的余味。
李志延原文:A wine that has balance, good intensity, layers of complex flavors and a long length.
11. 您能否介紹一下在您成為葡萄酒大師的過(guò)程中,什么因素最為重要?天賦還是一些其他因素?
答:天賦并不是成為葡萄酒大師的必要條件。你需要具備基本的品嘗、嗅覺(jué)能力以及對(duì)食物和風(fēng)味的鑒賞能力。最重要的一點(diǎn)是熱情,它會(huì)不斷引導(dǎo)你去品鑒與學(xué)習(xí),發(fā)掘葡萄酒的世界。這對(duì)于一些人來(lái)說(shuō)是一項(xiàng)工作,但你若喜愛(ài)葡萄酒,這就是一種享受。
李志延原文:In born talent is not necessary to be a Master of Wine. One needs basic tasting and smelling ability and an appreciation for food and flavors. The most important part is the passion which leads you to constantly taste, study and discover the world of wine. This can be considered 'work' for some, but if you love it, it is pleasure.
12. 對(duì)于剛接觸葡萄酒的人,您有什么建議?
答:我建議可以先嘗試勃艮第大區(qū)級(jí)或村莊級(jí)的紅、白葡萄酒,如伯恩村(Beaune)的紅葡萄酒和馬貢村(Macon)的白葡萄酒。伯恩村的紅葡萄酒通常單寧柔順、輕盈,十分易飲;馬貢村的白葡萄酒則果味濃郁,酒體中等,并且?guī)в刑O(píng)果和梨的氣息。這兩種葡萄酒都非常易飲。
李志延原文:I recommend starting with Burgundy regional or village level white or red - for example, a Beaune village red or a Macon white. The tannins in Beaune red are soft and light, easy to enjoy and for Macon white, the style is fruity, medium bodied with apple and pear notes. Both are easy to enjoy styles.
關(guān)于李志延大師的直播視頻,我們將會(huì)在近期配上中文字幕,敬請(qǐng)留意!(文/Shirley、Olivia、Joyce)