Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Mulheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, Mosel, Germany

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Richter’s concentrated 2006 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett feinherb features vivid apricot and apricot kernel, nutty depth, orange zest, and stony mineral character. With a formidable sense of stuffing and palpable, almost chewy density, one might quibble with labeling this “Kabinett,” but not with its richness of texture, intensity and solid finish. It should prove most interesting at table over the next 8-10 years. “My minmum must weight was 100,” says Dirk Richter, almost in tones of exasperation, rendering it hard to craft lighter-weight wines, particularly at the restrained levels of residual sugar that usually characterize his estate. Some of Richter’s dry-tasting wines had difficulty coming to terms with their alcohol, and as he was the first to admit, in 2006 this could happen even with “feinherb” wines of more than 15 grams residual sugar. He wasn’t able to get his full picking crew (mostly Poles) in place until October 10, and many of this years wines appeared to struggle with the rougher aspects of botrytis and/or the effects of having tried to remove their taint from the musts. “We ended up just leaving the grapes hanging in some parcels,” says this veteran, “which is something I have never experienced.” (Incidentally, Richter and his importer appear to have collaborated in lowering his prices in the U.S. market for this vintage, despite the weak dollar.)Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800