There’s a textbook quality to this Zinfandel. You could use it in a teaching class as expressing the classic California attributes of the variety. It’s perfectly dry, not too high in alcohol, firm in tannins, and deeply flavored in dark stone fruits and berries. And then there are the freshly crushed peppercorns, black, red, green and white. Could be the perfect barbecue wine. ——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 90