Pierre-Yves Tijou and his sons offer a wide array of wines – and from numerous vintages simultaneously – including many user-friendly and well-priced examples of both dry and sweet Chenin. The 2004 Coteaux du Layon Chaume announces itself with a pungency of botrytis that makes the hairs stand up inside my nose: smoke, grapefruit zest and pit fruit distillates all persist on the palate, along with candied citrus, caramelized pit fruits, and a bite of botrytis. It’s admirable that this wine is only now headed for market, but arguably it needs at least another year to resolve a slightly jumpy, faintly bitter personality, and to reveal its full potential. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990