A tangy cherry and smoke bouquet opens this light, attractively balanced wine. Shows interesting chalk hints, but also too much of a green element for it to really sing. Still, they’ve gotten the feel just right, hard enough with Pinot Noir. Deeper, more focused fruit could make this an impressive contender. I hope the Thandi team stays with it in upcoming vintages. ——M.M.(12/15/2004)—— 84