The 2006 ASSYRTIKO is a well rounded wine without the steely notes we see in some Assyrtiko incarnations. It is a good example of how charming this grape can be in a different, less acidic style. It is harmonious and hard to resist, friendly and gentle, with a bit of lemon on the finish and good depth. It feels full in the mouth, showing fine depth. The finish is a bit modest. Expansive and wide open, this is drinking as well as it ever will right now. It may hold, but I wouldn’t want to waste that fresh, prime time feel that this has at the moment. Drink now-2011. Importer: Wonderful Ethnic Imports, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 683-5021

——J.C.(9/2/2004)—— 84