Pommard is one of the old, pre-Dijon clones in California, and here, it yields a slightly rustic wine, with wild berry, pepper, rhubarb, coffee and earthy flavors, edged with new oak. It’s dry and young now, but the fruity core is dramatically rich in cherries, and the acid-tannin balance is perfect. All it needs is two to five years to come around.——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 91
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