The fruit-driven 1998 Pinot Grigio is not complex, but it cuts a savory mouthfeel, offering pear and ripe apple notes along with hefty glycerin and body. Drink it over the next year. This 4,000 case winery will expand production in 1999 to approximately 10,000 cases. This is good news for everyone who has been trying to find these hand-crafted products.One of my favorite artisanal California producers, Edmunds St. John continues to do tasty things with an assortment of varietals other than the wine world's favorite flavors - Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.Tel. (510) 981-1510; Fax (510) 981-1610

This wine is a straightforward, creamy-textured, spicy wine with honeyed fruit, nice glycerin and body, and a clean, fresh mouthfeel. My instincts suggest this wine will reveal far more character when matched with food. My score may be a bit stingy as this wine possesses fine length, but I still think it should be drunk over the next year.One of my favorite small California wineries, Edmunds St. John continues to turn out artisanal, non-oaked wines (all are aged in barrel, but no new wood is used) that are filled with personality and flavor.Tel. (510) 654-1230

The 1993 Pinot Grigio is a fun wine. Its wonderfully honeyed, richly fruity nose is followed by a wine with medium body, admirable depth, excellent purity, and heady alcohol. Although it is unlikely to win many first-place awards, it offers a level of pleasure that cannot be measured by a score. Drink it over the next year. I have been consistently impressed by the quality, complexity, and joy that the wines of Edmunds St. John provide.

It is hard to find Pinot Grigio this good from Italy, so you know how special this wine is. Today most Pinot Grigios are innocuous, sterile wines that are devoid of any bouquet, offering meager flavors dominated by acidity and alcohol. This offering from Edmunds St. John is bursting with soft, buttery, nutty, fruit flavors that are medium-bodied and lively, and a fragrant perfume. This delicious Pinot Grigio begs to be drunk with grilled salmon over the next 8-12 months. As a postscript, kudos go to winemaker Steve Edmunds for taking a risk and preserving all of his grapes' flavor by bottling these wines with no filtration!