Weingut Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mittelrhein, Germany

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There is actually a larger volume of 2006 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs than there is of Spatlese trocken. (I am still unclear how under VDP regulations Jost is permitted to bottle “alternative” dry wines from his Grosses Gewachs vineyard, but presumably because it is a virtual monopoly). This has even more stuffing, an ester-rich, voluminous richness, and a similar concentration of tropical fruit. Nut oils, pumpkin and brown spices join the tropical roster in the finish, where despite 14.5% alcohol (and notwithstanding experience with many other dry 2006s) there is remarkably little sense of heat. Still, one wonders whether to chance holding on to bottles for more than 3 or 4 years, and this will need to be paired carefully lest it overpower the cuisine. The normally dry and always steep and well-ventilated Hahn certainly enjoyed advantages in a rain-plagued vintage like 2006.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300