Weingut Emrich-Schonleber Riesling Qba Trocken, Nahe, Germany

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The 2004 Monzinger Riesling trocken, vinified without chaptalization, employing fruit from the Fruhlingsplatzchen and Rosenberg vineyards, represents a good value in dry estate Riesling. Aromas of lemon zest and toasted almonds lead to a mouthful of fruit and minerals that walks a fine line between brightness and delicacy on the one hand and on the other enough stuffing and ripeness to fill out on the palate. A glossy, incipiently satiny texture helps ameliorate the acidity. The finish is mineral-tinged, bright, with the juiciness of fresh lemon and lettuce but with sufficient nutty low tones and richness not to be too spare. There was not a lot of time or leeway, relates Werner Schonleber, between the onset of complete ripeness and that of negative rot, so once the harvest started in mid October, it was necessary to “give it some gas” and not waste a single dry day. For the most part, there was not sufficient late warmth or sun to steer the botrytis that was present in a noble direction. But the array of clean, rot-free, wines with mineral and fruit concentration this year is certainly formidable, thanks among other factors to the excellent ventilation of these steep sites, the Schonlebers’ careful canopy management, and of course considerable selectivity at harvest.Various importers including: Chapin Cellars – Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700 and Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ tel 856-608-9644