Gifford Hirlinger Stateline Red, Walla Walla Valley, USA

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The 2008 Stateline Red is a forward, easy-going blend with plenty of spicy, fruity, cassis and black currant flavors. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. It is a very good value. Gifford-Hirlinger is one of many eastern Washington wineries to have opened a tasting room in the Seattle area to be nearer to customers and to facilitate direct sales. The new releases are all solid efforts meant for early drinking.Tel. (509) 301-9229; www.giffordhirlinger.com

This deceptively named and priced wine is a gem. It’s all estate-grown, and the blend is a fascinating combination of Merlot, Cabernet and Malbec, with a dollop of Tinta Cao, Tempranillo and Petit Verdot. Dark and demonstrative, it has a seductive nose of black fruits, toast and coffee. Currants and black cherries are wreathed in smoke, and the suppleness grows into a lengthy and satisfying finish. Many wines at twice the price would like to be this good.——P.G.(7/1/2011)—— 91

This is a 50-50 blend of estate-grown Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in neutral oak. Dark, plush, well-ripened fruit is the focus of a wine still a bit stiff and steely. It’s classic in the way a Bordeaux is classic, firm and confidently blended.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 88

This is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in neutral oak. It’s bright and peppery and lightly herbal, with tart strawberry and cherry tomato flavors.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 86