The purple-colored 2007 Hunter Valley Shiraz spent 18 months in 60% new French oak. It displays wood smoke, sage, black pepper, lavender, and blackberry. Medium-bodied, on the palate it is lean, racy, and elegant with enough structure to support 2-3 years of further cellaring. For those who find Shiraz from McLaren Vale and Barossa to be overbearing, this could be your ticket. Brokenwood is one of the quality leaders of Hunter Valley in New South Wales.Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

Truth be told, the difference in quality between this wine and the $125 Graveyard Vineyard bottling doesn’t appear that great, so savvy consumers should jump on this Shiraz, which offers leather, coffee and roasted meat complexity allied to medium body, a creamy texture and a long, firmly structured finish. Drink 2015-2025.——J.C.(2/1/2010)—— 90