The ruby/garnet-colored 1997 Brunello di Montalcino is controversial, as well as a risky choice. Notes of Asian spices, soy, dried herbs, old leather, and damp earth are followed by a medium-bodied wine with extraordinarily high, nasty tannin. The aromatics are sweet, but in the mouth, the flavors are austere as well as lacking the concentration to support the structure. As always, time will prove which component triumphs. However, a quarter of a century tasting has shown that when the tannin is this high, it usually wins over the fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014?Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200
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