The expensive 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve spent 28 months in French and American oak prior to bottling. Its deep ruby color is followed by sweet vanillin, creamy oak, black currant, licorice, and spice box aromas and flavors. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with considerable flavor as well as silky-textured tannin, but not much depth to its richness. It is an elegant, stylish, medium-weight Cabernet to drink over the next 6-7 years. Tel. (707) 963-9454; Fax (707) 963-7035

Heavily oaked, with peanut aromas masking the fruit. But in the mouth it has more accessible fruit—mostly cassis—and once again the full allotment of wood. It’s no surprise when it finishes buttery, and with coffee flavors. A tough one to call now. Will the wood integrate? Will the fruit emerge?——W.E.(11/1/2000)—— 90