Andre Ostertag, the idiosyncratic Alsatian producer, continues to turn out intriguing, pure, crisp, dry wines that beg for consumers' attention. I am generally not a fan of Sylvaner, but Ostertag's 1994 Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes is a highly laudatory effort. The wine reveals tart acidity, good, crisp fruit, some CO2 that offers freshness, and a zesty, clean finish. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42554293), various American importers