The finest wine I have ever tasted from the Nero d'Avola grape is Morgante's 1999 Don Antonio, a cuvee of 100% Nero d'Avola aged in 100% new French oak, and bottled without filtration. Malolactic fermentation was also done in barrel. This exquisite effort boasts an opaque purple/blue color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of creamy new oak intertwined with blackberry liqueur, flowers, and cassis. This ripe, full-bodied beauty possesses great intensity, explosive richness, and a finish that lasts for over 35 seconds. This is a revolutionary example from a varietal indigenous to Sicily. Moreover, it should drink well for a decade or more. Wow! A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Black raspberry and sweet cinnamon-toast aromas lure you into the glass. The alcohol is 14%, but the intense dark fruit and substantial tannins give it balance. Delicious now but will age well for a number of years. ——C.S.(5/1/2002)—— 90