Morgante’s 2006 Nero d’Avola Riserva Don Antonio comes across as surprisingly compact in this vintage. Dark fruit, spices, cola and mint emerge from the glass, and the wine reveals good persistence on the palate, even if all of the elements don’t quite harmonize as they so often do here. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Morgante’s Don Antonio is a wine that faithfully mirrors the growing success of Sicily. It’s been around long enough to provide a model for younger vintners and it’s quality remains excellent, thanks to a dense, inky texture and bright aromas of dark cherry and toasted almond. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 91