The 2007 Wild Eyed Syrah was sourced from three Red Mountain sites and aged in 75% new French oak. Medium ruby-colored, it reveals a captivating nose of Asian spices, lavender, garrigue (sage), blueberry, and plum. Full-bodied on the palate with savory flavors and some elegance despite its size, this tasty offering has enough concealed tannin to evolve for 2-3 years and drink well through 2020. Mark Ryan McNeilly began his winery in 2000 and currently produces 6000 cases of bold, in-your-face wine (I said the same thing in Issue 177 and 185, but it is just as true now). He is now moving toward all native ferments which can only add more personality to his wines. Tel. (206) 910-7967; www.markryanwinery.com

The use of 75% new oak applies a thick coating of vanilla over the fruit, which nonetheless is in plentiful supply, sweet, sappy and delicious. Immense black cherry and cassis turns a bit liquorous in the mouth, with streaks of tobacco, lots of vanilla and some finishing heat.——P.G.(11/1/2010)—— 88