Very tannic, a challenge the winemaker will have to deal with, but there’s enormous promise in this new, unexplored appellation of Lake County. Complex, this wine is marked by peppery blackberry fruit and licorice, with a rich vein of sweet new leather. Has that undefinable take-a-second-sip quality. Drink now, but decant for a few hours. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 91