Even more reserved than the Vieilles Vignes bottling, the 2019 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Hommage à Jean Morin unwinds in the glass with notes of plums, smoky berry fruit, rich soil tones, spices, orange rind and cherries. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's deep and textural, with prodigious reserves of fruit and rich, powdery tannin. Lively and perfumed, I can't wait to revisit it in bottle.