Mature and evolved, the 1997 Esprit de Beaucastel offers alluring spice, leather, underbrush and sweet red fruits as well as a medium to full-bodied, balanced and supple mouthfeel. Past peak maturity but still an elegant, classy effort that’s drinking beautifully, it shows the age-ability of this cuvee. It’s not going to fall off a cliff anytime soon, yet I would still drink bottles sooner rather than later. Drink now. Certainly a reference point for Paso Robles, Tablas Creek continues to produce wines in a restrained, age-worthy and savory style that sets them apart. Both 2010 and 2011 are strong here, with the 2010s showing additional depth and concentration and the 2011s showing pretty, elegant profiles. I suspect the 2011s will be on faster evolutionary tracks, but given their balance, they could surprise in the cellar. In addition to their current releases, I was able to do short verticals of their Esprit de Beaucastel (which is now called Esprit de Tablas) and Panoplie. To say I came away impressed would be an understatement. Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com