Although shut down, closed, and backward at present, the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Fiancee exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color as well as an intense black cherry, black currant, smoke, graphite, and chocolate-scented perfume. In the mouth, it is very structured, formidably tannic, and backward. This wine needs to be forgotten for 4-5 years; it should evolve for 15-20. With over 30 acres of vines in Chateauneuf du Pape, this relatively new estate, run by Christian and Julien Barrot, has served notice that they are intent on making high quality wines. In ascending order of quality (to my way of thinking), their three cuvees include the Reserve, Fiancee, and the magnificent 100% old vine Grenache offering called Pure, which is about as close to a great vintage of Rayas as one will find (although Domaine Charvin is equally close in style).Importers: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (609) 608-9644 and Turner Wine Imports, Morrisville, NC; tel. (919) 463-7676

Bright pepper and spice in the nose. Richly brambly/red fruit quality with spice, pepper and a freshly integrated balance which makes this elegant. Lovely seamless fruit.