The grapes barely got ripe in this vineyard in chilly Marin, just north of the Golden Gate. The numbers tell the story. Acidity is .082 grams, alcohol is 11.8%, there’s no oak, and the wine was stirred on the lees for five months. The result is an impressive Riesling, one of the driest on the market, a wine of great delicacy and subtlety. Fruit isn’t the star here; minerals are. This is a wine to watch.——S.H.(9/1/2007)—— 91