Benanti’s 2003 Pietramarina (Carricante from 80-year old vines) opens with a big, brooding nose redolent of scorched earth, crushed rocks and lime peel. Its gorgeous fabric of fruit is interwoven with suggestions of smoke and minerals that add further complexity as this compelling white opens in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily’s re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can’t add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524