The extraordinary team of Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler fashions exhilarating Chardonnays that are compellingly complex, lavishly rich, and exceptionally well-balanced. One can quibble over which is best, but they are all immensely satisfying Chardonnays. Given how irresistible they are young, most of them are probably drunk within hours of purchase. That may be a shame, as Kistler's best cuvees of 1987 and 1988 are aging exceptionally well. Although Kistler's 1991 Chardonnays are not as opulent, explosively rich, and authoritative as their 1990s, they are among the greatest of the vintage. Although the 1991 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch does not possess the depth or dimension of the 1990 or 1988, it is an excellent Chardonnay, with a subdued, attractive bouquet of buttery fruit and subtle oak, lively ripeness, medium to full body, and admirable chewiness. The finish lacks the persistence of some of Kistler's more noteworthy efforts. Drink it over the next 4-5 years.
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