The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon is superb. This opaque purple-colored effort reveals aromas of black currants, creosote, smoke, minerals, and plums. It is full-bodied, with exquisite density and terrific fruit purity and intensity, particularly in the mid-palate and length (always good signs for wines that are meant to improve and last). There is plenty of tannin, but this is a generous, impressively endowed wine that should stand the test of several decades of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2025. The Seavey estate has 40 acres of vineyards, yet yields are so low that in 1998 they produced only 2,340 cases! Tel. (707) 963-8339; Fax (707) 963-0232

Firm, tight and complex, with a rich, focused band of spicy currant, mineral, plum, cherry, cedar and anise, turning rich and flavorful on the finish. Best from 2001 through 2010. 1,175 cases made. -JL