The 2005 Syrah Lewis Vineyard delivers classic Syrah meaty, gamy notes along with fragrant blueberries. However, on the palate the wine is quite firm, becoming a bit hard and narrow in the finish. While it may evolve, purchasers should drink it near-term while the fruit holds.Since I saw him last year, Mike Januik has moved into a splendid new winery in Woodinville which he shares with Novelty Hill Winery for whom he makes the wines. Current production is at 8000 cases.Tel. (425) 481-5502; www.januikwinery.com

This has the sharp, spicy excellence of the best Washington Syrahs; it’s got precision, depth and texture. The fruit flavors are compact, buttressed with earthy flavors that include iron and mineral and herb. There is a leafy edge to the tannins suggestive of tobacco. It’s a complex and fascinating wine that should age well.——P.G.(12/31/2008)—— 91