The 2011 Pinot Noir Aidan comes entirely from the Wild Rose Vineyard, and is made from 12-year-old Dijon clones 115 and 777. About 30% whole clusters were used by winemaker Andy Smith. This beauty exhibits abundant notes of forest floor, underbrush, black currants, dark cherries, spice box, vanillin and earth. Rich and full-bodied with low acidity as well as silky tannins, it should be consumed over the next 4-5 years. Since its founding in 1996, DuMol has been one of the superstar wineries of the entire California North Coast. They primarily focus on gorgeous Burgundian-styled Chardonnays from cool micro-climates as well as Pinot Noirs, with the added attraction of one Viognier and one or two Syrahs. They have been consistent from the beginning with winemaker Andy Smith, who has a brilliant record not only at DuMol, but at several other estates where he is the full-time winemaker, particularly the Napa Valley estate of Larkmead, just north of St. Helena. All five 2011 Chardonnays I tasted merit serious attention from consumers. Forget the difficulties of this vintage as DuMol came through with flying colors. All of the 2011 Pinot Noirs were harvested before the heavy rains fell in October, except for the Cuvee Ian, which was completely declassified. The three vintages of Syrah Eddie’s Patch I tasted come from a vineyard called Hoppe-Kelly, which is planted in red soils southeast of Healdsburg, near Chalk Hill. Tel. (925) 254-8922

The 2011 Pinot Noir Aidan Wildrose Vineyard is one of the deeper, richer wines in the range. Juicy dark cherries, plums, sweet spices, licorice and mint all meld together in an expressive, seamless wine endowed with gorgeous purity and depth. Round, sweet and caressing – especially within the context of the year – the 2011 is showing beautifully today. The use of 25% whole clusters is imperceptible, such is the wine’s balance. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2009 as a “sweet, forward vintage,” while 2011 is more “dynamic and commercial.” Smith reserves his highest praise for 2010, which he calls his favorite among the three current vintages. In 2011, Smith bulked out 20% of his Pinot Noirs, including the entire production of the Eoin. All the 2011 Pinots came in before the rains. Smith used whole clusters only for the Aidan, as botrytis was an issue in all the other Pinot vineyards. The Charles Heintz Chardonnay came in after the rains. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to taste the 2011 Syrahs, as the final blends had not yet been put together at the time of this tasting. In broad terms, the DuMol Chardonnays are all fermented and aged in barrel, with no lees stirring. Some of the wines are aged in slightly larger 300-liter barrels, and at times the malolactic fermentations are partly blocked, which results in wines that are texturally rich but also full of energy, a combination that is rare and hard to achieve. The single-vineyard Pinots spend 14-15 months in barrel on their fine lees, while the Syrahs get a few more months in oak. At their best, the Pinots and Syrahs are compelling.Tel. (925) 254-8922