The 2006 Rosso Conero San Lorenzo (Montepulciano) is a pretty, entry-level wine. Floral red fruits are intermingled with scents of sweet toasted oak as this generous, fruity wine opens up in the glass. Ideally the wine is best enjoyed while the fruit is vibrant. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Umani Ronchi is one of the Marche’s historic properties. The entry-level wines offer lovely balance but many of the top selections come across as overdone, particularly when it comes to the use of French oak.Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725