Coming from a more hyped year, Marie and Francois’ 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Les Gallimardes shows the structured, angular nature of the vintage nicely. Possessing a deep, concentrated and rich feel, with black licorice, charcoal, roasted meat and darker fruits, it has stunning purity, full-bodied richness and notable underlying structure. Opening up nicely in the glass, it has more than enough fruit to keep it enjoyable today, but has at least another decade of prime drinking. One of my favorite estates in the Southern Rhone, Domaine Giraud is run by the brother/sister pair Marie and Francois Giraud, with Marie making the wines and Francois managing the vineyards. Created in 1974 by Pierre and Mireille Giraud, it wasn’t until 1998 that they bottled their first release (both a traditional Chateauneuf and a Cuvee Les Gallimardes). While some estates have a difficult transition from generation to generation, in this case, Pierre let Marie make the wines in 2001, and after tasting the results, quickly gave her full rein. In addition, Philippe Cambie lends his consulting advice here. The style certainly leans toward the hedonistic end of the spectrum, but the wines always have beautiful purity and classy, balanced profiles. For this tasting, we started with their Les Gallimardes cuvee and finished with the Les Grenache de Pierre. I’ve listed the wines in the order tasted. In addition to superb reds, they made a rock-solid white. Starting with the Les Gallimardes cuvee, this bottling comes all from the Les Galimardes lieu-dit that’s located in the southern, warmer portion of the appellation. The soils here are mostly rolled pebbles, and the vines are over 100 years in age. The wine is almost all Grenache (roughly 10% Syrah), completely destemmed (as of 1999) and has the Grenache aged all in tank and the Syrah all in smaller barrels. It’s always a rich, sexy and full-throttle effort, yet to me, it offers thrilling Chateauneuf du Pape character and is easily one of my favorite wines. Compared to the Les Grenache de Pierre release, the Les Gallimardes is more exuberant, overflowing and hedonistic. In addition, they implemented a stricter selection for this cuvee in 2005 and moved to using only their older vines. I think it shows, as current releases have additional depth, concentration and purity. Moving to their Grenaches de Pierre releases (which translates to “Grenache of their Grandfather”), this cuvee comes from 100-year-old vines planted in the sandy soils of the La Crau and Pignan lieux-dits. It’s made from 100% Grenache and aged almost completely in concrete tank. It’s always slightly more polished than the Les Gallimardes release and has beautiful complexity and purity, while not skimping on the textured or depth of fruit that’s present in all of Marie’s wines. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The powerful 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Gallimardes exhibits a saturated dark ruby/purple-tinged hue, medium to full-bodied, powerful flavors, high tannin, loads of structure, superb purity, richness, and depth, but it requires 2-3 years of bottle age. It should evolve for 15-20 years. One of the Rhone’s most exceptional wine consultants, Philippe Cambie, assists at this serious estate, which has been coming on strong over recent vintages. In fact, 2005 and 2006 may be their finest back-to-back years to date. Proprietors Francois and Marie Giraud produce three cuvees, all of which merit interest in both of these vintages.Importer: Parliament Importing Co., Atlantic City, NJ; tel. (609) 348-1100

Bright, fresh nose. Juicy, intense sweet plums and prune fruit quality. Bright fruit with a firm backbone and fresh acidity.