The 1997 Pinot Gris is a steely, honeyed, round, refreshing wine with hints of tropical fruits. This delightful offering does not go through malolactic fermentation (in order to preserve its freshness), so it should be consumed within its first year of life. This impeccably made white is better for the fact that it is 100% tank-fermented and aged, and bottled early to capture its freshness. Tony Soter, one of California's finest and most influential wine consultants, has an impressive portfolio of new offerings. Some of his least known (quantities tend to be under 500 cases per vintage) wines are his tank-fermented and aged, crisp, vibrant, dry whites. Tel. (707) 257-5300; Fax (707) 257-6022