The profound 2001 Matallana is a 200-case luxury cuvee aged 18 months in 100% new French oak. A Ribera del Duero of first-growth quality, it exhibits a complex perfume of roasted coffee, mocha, chocolate, creme de cassis, licorice, and smoke. Seamlessly knit with full-bodied opulence, superbly concentrated fruit, with no heaviness, and a long, 40-second finish, it has completely absorbed the wood component. Drink this stunning wine now and over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Smooth, smoky and leathery is how this winner gets going, and backing that up is a palate of laser-beam intensity. This offers nothing less than an explosion of plum and cherry flavors, but the style is clean and fresh, not heavy or overoaked. Already it shows nice evolution, as it comes across drinkable. Ethereal in how the finish just slips away. Only 375 cases produced. ——M.S.(6/1/2005)—— 93