The 2005 Matallana was sourced from a biodynamically farmed vineyard with crushing done by foot. It was aged for 20 months in 50% new French oak. Purple in color, it has a brooding nose of pain grille, graphite, espresso, incense and a potpourri of black fruits, Youthful on the palate, it has plenty of ripe tannin that will require 5-7 years of cellaring. However, the wine has all the right stuff, and it is only a matter of time before my score will appear conservative. The talented Telmo Rodriguez makes a wide range of high quality wines from both ends of the price spectrum. Importer: Michael Quinttus, Vintus Wines; www.vintuswines.com

Coffee, cola and cacao flavors frame blackberry and currant fruit in this rich yet restrained red. The firm tannins are well-integrated, with licorice and spice notes adding interest. Sleek and modern. Drink now through 2013. 50 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Ribera del Duero Select to Add

With Matallana, you must pay for your pleasure. But pleasurable it is. The nose is a splendid blend of licorice, baking spices, cassis and black plum. The approach is neither quiet nor loud, but well-spoken. It pumps forth huge black cherry and plum fruit, but offsets any raw size with tobacco, herb, coffee and other subtleties. A touch hard now but should soften with a couple of years aging. Best from 2010–2013.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 93