The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les Chaignots comes across as quite closed and firm. There is plenty of energy and vibrancy in the glass, but the wine is not showing much today in the way of expressiveness. The energy and raciness of the finish add an element of exuberance, yet the 2009 needs a few more years before it truly sings. This is quite a bit more reticent than it was from barrel. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Sisters Marie-Andree and Marie-Christine Mugneret made some of the very best wines of the year. Their 2009s capture the silky, sexy personality of the vintage while maintaining a classic, mid-weight sense of structure. Importers: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300, a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93