The 2007 Altos de Lanzaga has a spellbinding, pure bouquet of red currant, wild strawberry and thyme that is imbued with immense purity and delineation. The palate has a satin-like texture with superb acidity and filigree tannins that lend it a Burgundian, Romanee-St.-Vivant inspired finish. This is an exquisite follow-up to the brilliant 2006. Drink 2015-2025+ As well as visiting his family estate of Remelluri, I made a brief visit to Telmo Rodriguez’s minuscule, antediluvian winery in the village of Lanciego. It reminded me of setting foot in some of Burgundy’s more artisan domaines: cramped conditions, ancient cobwebbed walls, the acrid tang of mold and decades of winemaking. Telmo mentioned that authorities had tried to persuade him to at least concrete the floor, but he refuses, not wishing to tamper with the authenticity of the winery. I tasted wines from foudres that I will review once bottled. For now, I will concentrate upon those that are already in bottle, because they are spectacular. Telmo sees Altos de Lanzaga as the equivalent of a “premier cru” in Burgundy, sourced from 35-year-old vine grown on red soil that is fermented in cement vats and aged in foudres and casks. His aim is to find the character of the village of his vines within the ambit of Lanciego. Importer: Michael Quintus, Vintus Importers, Pleasantville, NY; www.vintuswines.com