From magnum, Pierre-Yves Colin's 2008 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is still youthful and introverted, unwinding in the glass with notes of lemon oil, mandarin, wet stones, freshly baked bread and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, tensile and incisive, it's racy and structured, with a delicate core of fruit and a long, precise finish. This Chevalier's best days still appear to be ahead of it, especially in magnum.