This grand cru is unbelievable, possessing everything I could hope for in a white wine. Is this a candidate to merit a perfect score? The profound Chevalier-Montrachet, produced from vines planted in 1968 and 1972, offers a mind-blowingly intricate, precise and refined nose of minerals, chalk, rock dust and flowers. On the palate, this breathtaking wine enthralls with its superbly defined and harmonious medium-to-full-body. Each time I raised the glass to my lips I found new flavors. Minerals, stones, gooseberry, plums, sea shells, toast, raspberries, peaches, pears, honeysuckle blossoms, "champagne" currants, and flint can all be discerned in this silky, lovely, refined, and ethereal wine. Words simply cannot do it justice. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2012.
This wine was bottled early - in August. Niellon is reluctant to pass judgement on a vintage until the wine has been in the bottle for several years. However, he commented that the 1996s are "very lively without being disagreeable", and are similar to his '93s, "but with fruit and more body." Malos were slow to start (a story heard throughout the Cote), and lasted an abnormally long time.
With the exception of my visit to Domaine Coche-Dury, I cannot recall having ever tasted such an extraordinary line-up of young white Burgundies. I left Niellon's cellar yearning for more.
Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.
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