There are five barrels worth of the 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a brilliant wine that unwinds in the glass with a complex bouquet of Meyer lemon, dried white flowers, beeswax, pear, toasted nuts and fresh mint. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and strikingly concentrated, with a bright line of succulent acidity, a textural but weightless profile and a long, lingering finish.