No this is not “red Muscadet”! But it is from a schistic site south of that better-known appellation, in view of the Atlantic, where among others Cabernet Franc and Chenin are grown. The 2005 Fiefs Vendeens Jacques is Domaine Saint Nicolas’ barrel-aged variation on Pinot Noir, and its aromas of raw meat, sour cherry, cherry pit and iodine certainly proclaim its varietal origins. Satisfyingly juicy on the palate, this really pours on both tart but ripe fruit and chalk and iodine minerality in the finish.A Jon-David Headrick Selection (various importers), Carborro, NC; tel. (919) 932-3450