The 2004 Gran Reserva is pure Tempranillo that spent three years in American oak and is the final vintage before taking the bold move towards maturation in French oak. It has a fresh, animated bouquet with dusky red berry fruit, raspberry leaf, plus subtle notes of licorice and dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with notes of dark chocolate, allspice, white pepper and cocoa. I appreciate the tension here, the classicism and poise. It has no intention of being a muscular, heavyweight Gran Reserva, but it brims with character and sense of place. Drink 2013-2024. In many ways, Marques de Riscal is the nexus between traditional and modern Rioja. Their cellars are a treasure trove of bottles back to the mid-19th century, while above the ground, tourists flock with cameras to gaze at the arresting Frank Gehry designed hotel and perhaps dine in its Michelin-starred restaurant. While it would be easy for such a well-known name to look back upon its legacy and their spellbinding wines of yore, there is no question that Marques de Riscal have their sights set firmly upon the future. There is a need to innovate, to progress and to keep track of consumers’ preferences while adhering to the values of Rioja that would have informed their own wines a century ago. It was interesting to meet head winemaker Francisco Hurtado de Amezaga and his son, Luis. Having shown me around their vast facilities, Francisco having to intermittently pose for a photograph from a tourist, we sat down to taste current releases and a couple of surprises from their rich history. Riscal presently own 500 hectares of their own vineyards planted with classic Riojan varieties and of course, Cabernet Sauvignon, plus 985 hectares that are out-sourced. With such a myriad of vineyards at their disposal, it has become possible for them to both market a high volume brand of their entry-level Reserva, but also specialize in more limited bottlings such as Finca Torrea and their Cabernet-influenced, Baron de Chirel. I have great respect for Marques de Riscal. Two of the greatest Spanish wines I have ever tasted came courtesy of this estate, one of which is listed below. Yet they are also determined to offer decent entry-level Reserva to the masses and as such, they serve as a great ambassador for the region. And discussing the wines with Francisco and Luis, it is clear that this is not a company content to rest upon its laurels. There was much conversation about improving their wines, introducing new grape varieties, questioning how they can improve quality, for example, by increasing the Cabernet component in the Baron de Chirel. Ratcheting up quality is not so easy to do on a grand scale but it is important that they keep doing so. Importer: Southern Wine & Spirits; www.southernwine.com