The Lignier 2005 Morey-St.-Denis Vieilles Vignes (from three parcels near the Route Nationale) leads with smoky, resinous aromatics. Ripe black cherry and raspberry characteristics then emerge and take center stage on the palate, where there are abundant fine tannins and real depth and substance as well as invigorating juiciness. This wine clings to the palate with resin, smoke and spices. Virgile Lignier elected not to filter his 2005s, but I suspected that a couple of them were suffering slightly from their very recent bottling. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($25.00; 86), 2005 Chambolle-Musigny ($50.00;86+?), 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin ($53.00; 86+?). Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.