The 2008 Sylvaner R, from a parcel of old vines, flows onto the palate with a seamless, exotic expression of ripe yellow fruits that is hard to describe. Everything about this bottling is truly kaleidoscopic, from the aromatics to the opulent, generous fruit. Despite the extroverted style, everything is in gorgeous balance. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Kofererhof is located in Valle Isarco, one of the most privileged spots in Alto Adige for intensely focused, mineral-driven whites. Proprietor Gunther Kerschbaumer began estate-bottling his own wines with the 1995 vintage, and since then Kofererhof has emerged as one of Italy's most exciting properties. Unfortunately only a few of the 2008s were in bottle as we went to press, but I hope to be able to taste the rest of the estate's current releases in the near future.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119