Castellare's limited production 1993 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale is a single vineyard offering made primarily from Sangioveto (75%). The wine is closed and firm, reluctantly giving up whiffs of saddle leather, underbrush, soy, and red fruits. It hits the palate with excellent richness, solid tannin, medium body, and plenty of spice. Give it 2-3 more years of cellaring and consume it over the following 12 years. This estate, owned by Paolo Panerai, has made significant changes (cutting yields, eliminating fining, and curtailing the amount of filtration) since the 1993 vintage. The vineyards, which are managed with no pesticides, consist of 49 acres in Tuscany's heartland. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620