The single-vineyard 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Il Poggiale possesses outstanding balance and harmony. Perfumed vibrant fruit, new leather, spices and toasted oak flow from this deceptively medium-bodied wine. There is enough freshness to make me think this elegant, refined Chianti will continue to drink well for another decade or so. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. For some reason Castellare seems to fly beneath most people’s radar screens, but the wines are often outstanding, particularly in the case of the estate’s top wine, I Sodi di San Niccol?, a 100% Sangioveto (Sangiovese) which in top vintages is capable of two decades of aging. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620