The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale bursts from the glass with layers of focused, mineral-infused fruit. It possesses striking inner perfume and the structure to support extended cellaring. There is plenty of freshness and vibrancy to complement the dark fruit. The single-vineyard Il Poggiale is 90% Sangioveto, 5% Canaiolo and 5% Ciliegiolo aged in French oak barrels, 90% 2nd year, 10% new. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. Castellare is one of those properties that never seems to get the attention it deserves, despite boasting a track record of superb quality that goes back several decades. That works to the consumer’s advantage, as prices have remained quite reasonable, especially for the flagship I Sodi di San Niccolo. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620