The single-vineyard 2009 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale is huge. Black fruit, smoke and licorice are some of the notes that burst from the glass in this extroverted wine. The Poggiale is a bit juicier and richer than the straight Riserva, but the two wines are as differentiated as they often are. Still, it is impossible not to admire the sheer balance and harmony of what is in the glass. The Poggiale is 90% Sangioveto, 5% Caniaolo and 5% Ciliegiolo, aged in French oak barrels, 10% new. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. I have long been a fan of Castellare. These are among my staples in Chianti Classico. As excellent as the wines often are, my impression is that quality and consistency have both increased in a big way over the last few years. This year’s new releases include a special commemorative wine made to celebrate the estate’s 30th vintage. While I am not usually a big fan of these “cellar blends,” the Trenta Vendemmie is truly a special bottle well worth seeking out. Readers who want to learn more about Castellare and their flagship I Sodi di San Niccolo may want to check out my vertical on that wine, also published in this issue. Kudos to proprietors Paolo and Nicoletta Panerai, and their long-time winemaker Alessandro Cellai, on these spectacular wines. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620