You can taste the sun in this elaborately ripe Cabernet. It blasts off in an eruption of blackberries and cherries that are so powerful, they veer into the liqueur versions of these fruits. Despite potent mountain tannins, it’s drinkable now, and will pair just fine with a great steak, simply grilled, salted and peppered. ——S.H.(12/1/2011)—— 91