Even though Boillot's medium to dark ruby-colored 2000 Volnay-Fremiets is bone-dry, it is so ripe that my notes read "sweet, sweet, sweet!" Its candied blackberries, blueberries, and licorice aromas lead to a sensual, velvety-textured, medium-bodied personality. This sex-pot of a wine has stupendous mouth-feel, gorgeous purity, and admirable length. If it picks up complexity and refinement with age, it will make my score look conservative... but who could have the self-control to cellar this gem! Anticipated maturity: now-2011. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083