Villa Matilde's potentially superb 1998 Vigna Camarato (100% Aglianico aged in 100% new French barrels, and bottled without filtration) reveals a complex, blackberry and floral-scented perfume with a hint of licorice and new oak. Dense and full-bodied, as well as brutally tannic, it appears to possess the constitution, robustness, and depth of fruit to support such high tannin, but it is not a sure thing. This explains the question mark. Nevertheless, there is a lot going on in this individualistic, intense 1998. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2018.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This 100% Aglianico from Campania offers layers of lavender, dark fruits, eucalyptus, mint and clove in its intoxicating bouquet. Sweet vanilla cream adds to the richness of this skillfully balanced wine that you can drink now or hold for another 10 ten years. Cellar Selection.——C.S.(5/1/2002)—— 92