The beguiling 2007 Block 5 Pinot Noir has a lovely nose with Felton’s trademark purity and finesse: succinct redcurrant, raspberry and wild strawberry aromas swelling in the glass with a slight clayey earthy undertow. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very approachable with superb balance. It may lack the weight and ambition of the 2006, but it compensates with femininity and refinement. I met proprietor Nigel Greening in London back in 2008 for a first peek at his new releases just before he moved permanently to New Zealand and then re-tasted some of the wines in Central Otago during the Pinot Noir Celebration and again at regional tastings. As expected, winemaker Blair Walter continues to produce a very Burgundian style of Pinot Noir that prioritizes elegance and finesse over power and concentration. Although their Pinot Noirs hog the limelight (deservedly so), their excellent Chardonnay and Rieslings should not be ignored. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd., St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661; fax (707) 963-8566.

Felton Road’s Pinots have been among the best in NZ, but the 2007s step things up another notch. The Block 3 combines a briary, slightly herbal element with black cherry aromas, then unfolds on the palate to reveal layers of fruit, coffee and spice. It’s lush yet structured, with a long, textured finish. Drink now–2015.——J.C.(5/1/2009)—— 93